Doumassi, a village without electricity or well, is located 3 km from the Ntem. Fang and a few pygmy families live there, but the latter barely use the traditional huts made from leaves.

Night work: The Bwiti

Early in the evening, music could be heard in the village. A man was playing a stringed instrument - the mvet. The music was to continue all evening - stringed instruments and drums complemented by a lead singer and group singing.

By half past twelve I had had enough of it. I had to get up. I wandered through the darkness towards the source of the music. This came from an "open" hut. I was welcomed, asked to remove my shoes and the village chief's daughter led me inside. I had to carry out some ritual movements and dance a bit and then I was allowed to sit next to the chief. Behind the altar sat four musicians and they were being fanned by a woman in an attempt to keep them cool. The village chief sat at the front and I sat next to him. All around were men, women and children sitting on benches. In the middle were a few paraffin lamps that supplied the dim lighting. It appeared to be a sort of night time Mass to worship the gods - the Bwiti.

The chief's daughter led me to the dance floor and I danced for a bit. My clothes were soaked with sweat once again. After a while the daughter took me outside and whispered "Je t'aime - I love you". I began to feel rather uncomfortable and told her that tomorrow I had to move on again. She took me into a hut - gulp! Fortunately her mother was there with two men, one of whom was lying drunk on the ground. He was propped upright and I had to take a photo. A bit later I thanked everyone enthusiastically and they said the celebration would continue until 6 am - once every four days for God. I tried to get some sleep. I did nod off occasionally - was there a pause from 2 to 3 o'clock? Then they started again. Until it was light.